IDENTIFICATION OF COCHINEAL AND OTHER DYES IN BYZANTINE TEXTILES OF THE 14TH CENTURY FROM MOUNT ATHOS

Abstract

Samples from ecclesiastical textiles (epitaphioi) which date in the byzantine period (14th century) and belong to monasteries of Mount Athos, are investigated using High Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled to a Photodiode Array Detector (HPLC-PDA). Prior to HPLC analysis, the historic samples are treated following a two step method, which was recently devised for dyestuff extraction: samples are first treated with hot dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) followed by mild acid (trifluoroacetic acid, TFA) hydrolysis. For the first time the use of cochineal in a byzantine textile is reported herein. According to the HPLC semi- quantitative results the cochineal dye was originated probably from Porphyrophora polonica L. (Polish cochineal) insects. Weld (Reseda luteola L.) is identified in the historic samples by detecting aglycone and glycoside components of the yellow dye, thus demonstrating that compounds which are destroyed under harsh acidic conditions (glycosides) can be recovered by the suggested two step dyestuff extraction method. Finally, kermes (Kermes vermilio Planchon), indigoid dyes which can be either indigo (Indigofera tinctoria L. and others) or woad (Isatis tinctoria L.), and tannins are found in the samples.